101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles
Jessica Koslow’s restaurant is at the heart of the modern-day craft food boomlet in California, an unassuming temple of West Coast seasonality, preservation, perfect toast and things in bowls. There’s a casual quality about Koslow’s cooking that belies its rigor: Her famous sorrel pesto rice bowl requires multiple cheffy techniques — pickling, fermenting, poaching — but it eats as if it’s the simplest thing in the world to throw together. Koslow’s genius is in her perfectionist’s drive to translate the landscape and its fleeting flavors onto the plate. Like a winemaker, she understands that jams are a pure expression of terroir, and that perfect fruits will yield perfect jams. More than any other contemporary L.A. restaurant, Sqirl taps into the city’s sunny, feel-good ethos, and celebrates the mythology of California as a place where the bounty is always great and the food is both wholesome and delicious. When you stand in line at Sqirl, you are often shoulder to shoulder with people from all over the world who have come to experience that version of California, fellow dreamers of the golden dream.
No alcohol. Street parking. Credit cards accepted.