101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles
Luxuriating in seasonality is the great cliché of California dining, but Walter and Margarita Manzke have forged their own singularly appealing place in the genre: They’ve perfected the template for the all-day modern American restaurant. Any talk of République should begin with Margarita’s morning pastry counter, a spectacle of laminated doughs, cakes, canelés, crostatas and tarts (for starters) that ranks among the finest in the country. Arrive soon after 8 a.m. opening or miss out on the raspberry-pistachio kouign-amann and the supreme-for-breakfast fruit pies.
Lines start early for a morning menu that will gratify pretty much any appetite; favorites include kimchi fried rice with diced short rib, poached eggs and pickled radish, and a blueberry-studded riff on kaiserschmarrn, the fluffy Austrian pancake that veers into souffle territory. Daylight favors République’s spectacularly baroque space, a castle-like complex built by Charlie Chaplin in 1929.
At night the restaurant makes an elegant leap from casual daytime meals to formal dinner service. Start by indulging in Normandy butter and pan drippings (imagine a hallucinatory Thanksgiving gravy) served with a baguette. Farmers market salads, restrained pastas and family-style platters (in summertime look for grilled pork loin, belly and sausages offset with roasted peaches) balance subtlety and full-out hedonism. Need it even be said that Margarita's ever-changing desserts are unmissable?
Full bar. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted.