Porridge & Puffs

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#29 At her calm, quirky, Historic Filipinotown sanctuary, Minh Phan begins her porridges by simmering Kokuho Rose rice from Central California’s Koda Farms with aromatics; she uses this base like staves on blank sheet music, adding meats, pickles and other garnishes to build melodies and counterpoints. Her creations revolve constantly, though one steadfast option with chicken, mushrooms, pickled celery and soy-spiked ground turkey is an ideal introduction to her quietly spectacular brand of comfort food. In warmer months I veer toward Phan’s vivid fermented tea salad strewn with nuts and of-the-moment vegetables and fruits. “Puffs” are hot, deep-fried sticks of dough that most resemble youtiao, the Chinese crullers often served with congee for breakfast. They can be ordered with powdered sugar and dipping creams but I prefer them plain and savory; the true draw for dessert is the melting mochi cakes drizzled with miso caramel. Though the restaurant deserves to be busier, Porridge + Puff’s minimalist room is a reprieve from the madding world. No alcohol. Street parking. Credit cards accepted."

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