Trois Mec

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#12 There is Ludo Lefebvre, phone in hand, pacing behind the counter of his restaurant with the intensity of a caged jaguar. “Rookie mistake,” he sighs, when one of his cooks leaves a waffle roasting too long in the oven. Then he pats the cook on the shoulder and goes about the business of finishing the night’s dinner service. Trois Mec is one of the city’s great tasting-menu restaurants, and Lefebvre one of its great culinary personalities. It’s the creative, meticulous cooking at Trois Mec, not a stately dining room or wine cellar, that makes you long for regular ringside seats at the restaurant. The French-leaning restaurant he operates with partners Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook, shoehorned into a former pizza parlor, has helped redefine what we mean by fine dining. Dinner might begin with Lefebvre’s mustard crème brûlée, or maybe the aforementioned seafood waffle, beautifully crisp, drizzled with a Vietnamese-inspired vinaigrette. Maybe there will be a sliver of ripe avocado superimposed over lime-tinged, salted cod cream; spears of steamed asparagus served with Parmesan custard and caviar; and, for dessert, creme fraiche panna cotta, followed by a fruity lozenge of strawberry mochi. Whatever is on the menu, it will be surprising, and invariably delicious. Beer and wine. Valet or street parking. Reservations required. Credit cards accepted."

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