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"Best new esquire 2024 Ease into one of the leather banquettes and glance at your table setting. To the left, across a folded napkin on top of a plate from Utsuwa-no-Yakata in L.A.’s Little Tokyo: a pair of chopsticks designed by Yota Kakuda. To the right, resting on a handmade ceramic ridge: a fork and a sharp knife from Sabre Paris. There are no accidents in this tableau. “A thousand details add up to one impression” is the mantra of the writer John McPhee, and if you pay attention, you’ll see how every gesture at Camélia is meant to contribute to a narrative. The story is a romantic one, a love affair between France and Japan. So a chicken is roasted with koji and surrounded by a seaweed-flecked cream, while tender beef cheeks in a red-wine sauce come with the crunch of crispy burdock root and the zing of fresh wasabi. In less capable hands this lane-changing might lead to a pileup on the Fusion Freeway, but with chef Charles Namba at the wheel it feels natural, inevitable, expressive. (The single most beautiful dish I saw during a year of eating had to be Namba’s “market vegetables in a variety of ways,” whose blasts of orange and pink and green called to mind the cutouts of Henri Matisse.) As the co-owners of two beloved Los Angeles spots at which it is customary to imbibe, Tsubaki and Ototo, Namba and partner Courtney Kaplan know quite a bit about the art of pairing. Should you choose wine or sake? Both. Even better, listen to Kaplan and opt for a chilled glass of Kamoshibito Kuheiji “Sauvage,” a sake that takes its inspiration from, yes, the French concept of terroir. It’s all about the details."
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