Meals By Genet

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#23 Genet Agonafer’s vegetarian combination platter is among the city’s supreme meat-free extravagances, a color wheel of ruddy lentils and orange-tinted split peas, turmeric-stained cabbage, greens, tomato salad and lemony beets. They’re arranged over injera that’s thinner and more pleasantly sour than most versions served in restaurants. This is a complete meal, filling and uplifting. That said? The meat dishes also persuade mightily. Heated butter with cardamom and other spices infuses pristine kitfo, the Ethiopian counterpart to steak tartare. Yebeg siga alicha, a mildly garlicky lamb stew, is a menu underdog; most diners understandably order Agonafer’s doro wat, chicken in a sauce fueled by sweet-sharp berbere and cooked for two days until everything is profoundly interconnected. Agonafer presides regally over her Little Ethiopia restaurant, in and out of the kitchen, weaving among tables covered with white cloths and glass tops, checking in on customers, her presence as warming as her food. Wine and beer. Street parking. Credit cards accepted."

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