Northern Thai Food

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

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"#37 To understand what splendidly sets apart “Nancy” Amphai Dunne’s 12-seat Thai Town restaurant, meet her at the steam table. The steel barge is a transporter to her native Chiang Rai, Thailand’s northernmost province. She’s constantly tending intricate, brothy stews such as gaeng hung lay, a pork belly curry animated by chiles, sour-sweet tamarind and the zap of julienned ginger. On the table’s left side sits a warming rack laid out with coils of sausage, small battered fish and knobby fried pork ribs; zero in on the sai ua, Chiang Rai’s remarkable, herb-packed pork links coursing with lemongrass. Once you’ve navigated the steam-table specialties, pad the meal with some menu items: green mango salad, khao soi (make sure to douse it with chile oil and squeezes of lime) and a brooding, extra-meaty version of pork larb. Anyone invested in the ecology of L.A.’s Thai dining landscape should put Dunne’s tiny storefront on their itinerary right this minute. No alcohol. Lot and street parking. Cash only.Read the Los Angeles Times review »"

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