The Exchange Restaurant

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#53 The menu at the Exchange is airily described on the restaurant’s website as a celebration of L.A.’s multicultural flavors refracted through an Israeli lens. I thought the conceit sounded unwieldy, but chef Alex Chang proved me wrong at the Exchange, the stylish restaurant wedged into a corner of downtown’s Freehand L.A. hotel. Chang makes harissa with Mexican chiles, and grills sweet potatoes and drapes them in a creamy Chile morita-spackled almond sauce. For brunch, he cooks shakshuka divorciados, a dish that probably does more for modern Israel-Mexico relations than any hard-working diplomat. You’ll want to plumb the depths of the salatim menu, mezze-like offerings that include a lovely hummus made with Rancho Gordo chickpeas, and a cucumber plate brightened with Chile sauce and fried halloumi. There is no shortage of dinner showpieces; try the terrific yellowtail collar marinated in amba, or the crisp, fragrant whole grilled branzino accented with glistening heaps of seaweed chermoula. Chang is a master at balancing big flavors, and his experiments in culinary cross-pollination frequently translate seamlessly onto the plate. Full bar. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted."

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