Broken Spanish

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#27 As the restaurant’s name alludes, the key to relishing Ray Garcia’s cooking is to not dwell too much on province or region, or where true-minded Mexican culinary traditions blur with Angeleno modernism. Trust his melding and imagining. Albondigas made with duck meat and blasted with bacon and chipotle push the classic meatball dish to smokier, spicier outer limits. Tamales filled with shredded lamb neck and king oyster mushrooms or with spinach, celeriac, feta, green garlic and pistachio etch new paths through the brain’s pleasure centers. His chicharrónshowstopper involves a massive block of pork belly rubbed with chiles and garlic, submerged in a sous-vide bath and then fried to order. His brand of mind-expanding cuisine lends itself to group dining; Broken Spanish is a standup choice for dining before or after an event at Staples Center. I’m also partial to a solo dinner at the bar on a quieter night. I could make an entire meal out of blue corn tortillas, made in the open kitchen by the restaurant’s entrance, slathered with whipped carnitas fat or swiped through wonderfully rich refried lentils. A shot of pechuga mezcal chases it all down. Full bar. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted."

In the Loup - a foodie's world map

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Sean Glass

@sdotglass