The Arthur J

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#96 Retro plushness, modernized steakhouse menu: The Arthur J’s forthright strategy delivers. Its decor conjures Palm Springs cool: tongue-and-groove ceilings, horseshoe-shaped booths and curvy Eames-style chairs, chandeliers of glowing orbs like floating models of our solar system. Settle in with poached shrimp cocktail brightened by horseradish, dill and cucumber, an ideal match for the dirty martini made with dill-infused gin. My go-to cut is the restaurant’s dry-aged, bone-in Kansas City strip steak, not cheap at $88 but plenty for two people. On the side? Creamed spinach and thick fries cooked in beef fat, with malt vinegar and Dijon aioli. The spuds are essential alongside the luxe cheeseburger, grilled over oak and crowned with apple-wood-smoked bacon, shredded Emmental and a nest of caramelized onions. The burger is served only in the front lounge; its onyx-and-gold bar makes for a superb treat-yourself pit stop after work, followed by a quiet stroll through Manhattan Beach. Full bar. Street parking. Credit cards accepted."