Skaf's Grill

"Glendale Lebanese $$ To understand what makes the Skaf family’s cooking stand out among the region’s Lebanese restaurants, start with the kibbeh. Its raw form, kibbeh nayeh, was traditionally ground lamb pounded with fine bulgur and spices into a smooth gloss. Most Lebanese chefs and restaurants in America use beef instead. Skaf’s does too, though the silkiness is as close to the original lamb form as it is possible to re-create; ask for the spicy version and, using pita, scoop bites punctuated with onion slivers and fresh mint leaves. My Lebanese friends taught me how best to eat kibbeh labanieh, a tapered and fried variation served in garlicky yogurt soup with rice. Spoon a piece of kibbeh into a small bowl and crumble it a bit with your fork, then add as much rice and yogurt as appeals. It’s the kind of dish that helps the world feel a little lighter. The same friends taught me a smart, common request for shawarma wraps, which are meant to be modestly sized, densely packed cylinders: Ask for them to be rolled in a single layer of pita, as in one half of a separated pocket. The thin ring of bread is still sturdy enough to contain the ingredients but equalizes the proportions. Crisp-edged chicken shawarma has a slight advantage over its beef counterpart, particularly with extra garlic sauce."