Kobee Factory

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#55 Kibbeh, in its essence, is a combination of spiced ground meat and fine bulgur wheat; how a cook shapes and prepares the recipe varies between the Levantine countries (Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Jordan) that most cherish the dish. At Waha Ghreir’s Van Nuys restaurant, start with an order of fried kibbeh — the tapered croquettes common among Middle Eastern restaurants in America. Ghreir’s are superior, the crunch of the shell cracklier and the filling showing a liberal hand with pine nuts. Then branch out, trying a slightly bouncier grilled version, a specialty of Ghreir’s native Syria, and a beautiful layered variation baked in a pan. The rest of the menu is brief, but each item reveals equal parts prowess and heart: falafel, a few kebabs, a wonderful mujadara (bulgur and rice pilaf covered with deeply caramelized onions). To summon the taste of breakfast in the Levant, come early for fatteh hummus, soft whole chickpeas folded among yogurt, tahini and olive oil and topped with fried shards of pita. Kobee Factory is unassuming, with half a dozen tables and spare decor, but the cooking — uplifting, stunning — is anything but. No alcohol. Lot and street parking. Credit cards accepted."