Angler

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#51 Angler rates as one of the most bravura seafood restaurants to open in Los Angeles this decade. Also, though, the place is a trip. Its windowless ground-level space sits embedded within the fortresslike Beverly Center; enter the mall at the La Cienega Boulevard entrance or risk wandering aimlessly through the parking structure trying to find it. The setting — taxidermy, stacks of wood, aquariums with sea creatures awaiting their fate — creates a distinct mood: fishing lodge by way of David Lynch. Suited servers glide calmly through the room, their brains having blocked out the blaring 1980s soundtrack. This is the domain of chef and restaurateur Joshua Skenes, who also operates an Angler in San Francisco. Under the daily direction of executive chef Dameon Evers, the L.A. kitchen yields success after success: a radicchio salad, presented as a nearly whole head, that bleeds its crimson dressing; harissa-slicked spot prawns; whole poached marble fish, served with its skeleton fried to a crisp for nibbling. Splurge on the tableside caviar service. A staffer spreads the roe over banana pancakes dripping butter infused with barbecued banana peels. It’s a ridiculous thing to eat. I’ve rarely been so happy. Full bar. Valet parking. Credit cards accepted."