Lukshon

101 Best restaurants of Los Angeles

@latimes

"#18 It is a custom among Los Angeles food critics to cite Lukshon as one of the city’s most undervalued restaurants; I gladly take up the torch. Its dining room, ensconced in Culver City’s Helms Bakery complex, should be more mobbed midday in particular; lunch on the shaded patio is spectacular. Chef Sang Yoon’s menu arises out of no one nation. He plucks ideas from Vietnamese, Sichuan, Thai, Malaysian and Korean cuisines, but he doesn’t much consider borders when coloring in his culinary maps. His imagination even occasionally wanders to New England. The lobster roll banh mi, spiked with crackly-chewy pig’s ear terrine and folded into buttered toast, is a rightful menu fixture; more recently he introduced clam chowder airlifted to Southwest Asia with coconut cream and Chiang Mai-style sausage. Cocktails, rife with herbs and fruits, skirt similarly limitless frontiers. The restaurant also invests in single-origin teas, including floral Taiwanese oolongs that match Yoon’s beguiling flavor combinations. Full bar. Lot parking. Credit cards accepted."

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