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"Une tuerie, tout était bon Les crêpes en priorité Pas de resa possible "
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"Helmed by chef Shaina Loew-Banayan, who received back-to-back James Beard Award nominations this year and last, the Hudson hotspot appeals with buttery crepes, orange muffins, and pork rillettes toast."
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"Hudson vacation before tattoo"
@chloebeenyc88
"Crepes - hell yeah; tomato sandwich - hell yeah. Try fried bologna sandwich; dinner menu"
@mikeya
"Small plates with attitude and whole animal bites."
@laurawheatley
"One of America's best new restaurants accd to Bon Appetit"
@chelsearpratt
"One of the best in the U.S. in Bon Appetit "
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"Best new in US. Shaina Loew-Banayan should have made the bologna last night. Alas, there was no time in the rush of the once-weekly dinner service, as plates of jellied pork terrine and fingers of buttery shortbread next to hunks of soft goat cheese landed on each table. So at 7:30 a.m. on a scorching Saturday in May, before the brunch rush and while most of the small riverside town of Hudson, New York, is still asleep, Shaina is blending beef. This is how mornings often begin at Cafe Mutton, a warm cottage-like restaurant that has proven, on each of my many visits, to be one of the country’s most delightful, unpredictable, and consistently delicious new restaurants. By 8:30 a.m. Liz Malatesta and Feather Krein, the restaurant’s two other cooks, are baking orange muffins and whisking crepe batter. Bettina Loew-Banayan, Shaina’s wife and the smiling face that greets you at the register, stacks vintage china plates and polishes silver. Bologna now setting in the fridge, Shaina has moved on to grinding and stuffing sausages that will be served with crisp medallions of potato and onion, all drenched in the silkiest hollandaise. Shaina’s confidence is mesmerizing as they perform the acrobatic feat of stabilizing a small sausage stuffer and twisting the crank with one hand while using the other to guide the stuffing into a long sheath of casing. It’s hard to imagine Shaina working anywhere other than this narrow kitchen, boiling bologna and turning chunks of meat into sausages so supple and juicy that the first time I tasted one I turned to my partner totally speechless, mouth agape. On one wall there’s a faded photograph of the chef’s great-grandfather and assorted distant relatives from Hungary. It’s a nod to the old-world cooking influences that shape much of the food here and a quiet statement that whatever restaurant trends may reign outside of this dining room, Cafe Mutton is a home for indulgent, ferociously local meat-heavy cooking and a place where gizzards, liver, and other oft-overlooked offal shine in all their carefully prepared glory. There was a time, before Shaina moved from New York City to Hudson, sights set on starting their own restaurant, that the young chef spread avocado on toast and assembled grain bowls for eight hours a day. At the helm of an all-day café in Manhattan’s financial district that Shaina describes alternately as “horrible” and “HORRIBLE,” they were forbidden by the owners from taking avocado toast or breakfast sandwiches off the menu to make room for more inspired dishes. Back then Shaina felt so trapped in the doldrums of their soulless job that they flirted with the idea of hanging up their apron and leaving kitchens for good. When they finally quit, the restaurant’s owners told the remaining staff that Shaina had given up an opportunity to become a household name. But if culinary fame could come only from cooking Instagram-ready food for the moneyed masses, Shaina didn’t want it. The food at Cafe Mutton, in all its warm beige beauty, is this chef’s response to a restaurant culture that often feels more interested in jumping on buzzy trends or catching dishes in the prettiest light than imagining a more exciting way of cooking. There is no espresso machine for oat milk lattes, no egg white scramble, no bacon egg and cheese, and no avocado toast. There is, however, a sandwich stacked with fried slices of that fatty just-made bologna. And a plate of three barely scorched crepes, served in a dignified heap like a pile of fresh sheets, finished with maple syrup and a big pat of butter. You can order a traditional French omelet with the insides still oozing—but here it’s filled with Boursin and topped with Ritz crackers. It’s not unusual during brunch service for a friend of the restaurant to be seen eating breakfast in the middle of the kitchen, perched at a table otherwise reserved for plating dishes and organizing receipts. On this particular Saturday the restaurant’s accountant stops in for a muffin; a prominent local writer comes by in a swimsuit to say hello on their way to a nearby swimming hole; and the chef of another popular restaurant up the road sits at a small table, nursing a hangover over a sandwich of slivered onion and thick slices of cheddar. Shaina, who has apologetically admitted on the restaurant’s Instagram account to having a “very difficult time recognizing faces,” waves at pretty much everyone. They might not know exactly who you are, but they’re delighted you’re here. Many of Shaina’s friends are farmers and foragers, and Cafe Mutton’s menu is often informed by the cuts of meat they struggle to sell elsewhere, or a sampling of whatever delicious wild vegetables were plucked on a particularly rainy morning. When Shaina gets a text saying the first batch of maitakes has arrived, the mushrooms are sandwiched between toasted baguettes and pungent cow’s milk cheese by the next morning. And if nearby Kinderhook Farm has lamb livers no one else wants, the small, precious fridge at Cafe Mutton fills up with—you guessed it—lamb livers. For dinner last night, the one that packed the small dining room so late that there was no time for bologna making, there were morel mushrooms stuffed with ground pork and cooked in brandy cream sauce, along with deviled pig trotters and sauerkraut. At a lot of restaurants, it’s easy enough to guess what sorts of kitchens the chef has worked in by the way they plate their food, or that one favorite dish they carried over from a previous job. But here, on a quiet corner, a few blocks past the main commercial stretch of town, Shaina is doing the opposite: They’re cooking the food they wished had been on the menu at so many of the uninspired and eerily similar restaurants they worked at before branching out on their own. In those early kitchen jobs, the ideals Shaina envisioned as a food-obsessed teenager never materialized. “I started to realize the reality of what these restaurants had going on—not just oppressive cultures but a lack of sustainability. The experience of being a cook was draining and depressing,” they say. Shaina was cooking food they wouldn’t want to eat or feed friends and felt trapped at the bottom of the food chain. As a female-bodied cook, it seemed like no matter what job they took, they always ended up at the salad station."
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"Bon Appetit Best New Restaurants 2022"
@artisenarae
"Escape Brooklyn Rec; beautiful dishes like its roasted mushroom scramble or scrapple & eggs"
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