Zi Ein

"⏳ 09.00–17.00 Sat–Thu, 15.00–18.00 Fri; admission free Also known as Thee al Ayn and Dhee al Ayn, this striking village is on the UNESCO World Heritage Site tentative list and for good reason. Built of local white marble and stone on a prominent hill, it contrasts beautifully with its backdrop of the Sarawat Mountains and is named after the permanently flowing natural spring at the base of the hill it has been built on. Estimated to be about 400 years old, the village was also a site of conflict between local tribes and the Ottomans from when it was built until the last years of the Ottoman Empire. The drive from Baha begins almost immediately with a series of tunnels built through the mountains, followed by kilometres of dramatic switchbacks. The views are other-worldly, with rugged, fog-shrouded mountain peaks that seem almost to pierce the sky. With each hairpin bend another stunning vista is revealed. Fortunately, there are many places where you can stop, park up safely off the road and enjoy the view – but do be aware that health-and-safety features at cliffs are non-existent, so be particularly careful with small children and anyone distracted when taking photos. As you approach the area, you will see Zee al Ayn slightly to the left of the road. There’s a contemporary white mosque on the right and a sign indicating the left turn off the road to the historic village. To the front is a rich oasis of palm trees and gardens nourished by the spring. Keep driving around the oasis to the car park at the end of the road. The site is accessed directly from the car park via a stone path. The Saudi authorities are in the process of restoring this site, but it remains open to visitors. A visitor centre is also being built along with a row of shops, toilets and a children’s playground. Take care along the paths as some of the steps leading up the hill to the village may be loose. To the left are 49 marble-and-stone homes and other structures with mud-built walls reinforced by wood, stone columns and cedar roofs. The buildings range in size from one to four storeys tall, many with wooden doors and window frames still in place. Although it was possible to explore the buildings at the time of research, the Saudi Tourism Authority is developing this site, so be prepared for some rule changes. Most homes no longer have any accoutrements but still offer a good idea of how they were built. There is a small stone-built mosque complete with minaret on the right side of the path – visitors can take the steps on to the top of the mosque which gives a nice view of the oasis back towards the road. Continue down past the mosque to reach the spring at the bottom which runs down from a knotty tree, as well as the elevated garden now used as a place to rest and take refreshment. There’s also a short hiking trail for visitors further along the edge."