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"Rockaway http://chopsticksandmarrow.com/2020/06/surf-turf-rockaway-style-at-whits-end/ Like many of us I’m struggling with balancing social distancing and the onset of summer fun in these strange times, but that didn’t keep me from taking a ride to Rockaway Beach. My buddy and I stayed off the sand for this trip. Instead, we paid a visit to Whit’s End, a gourmet outpost by the sea that’s been masquerading as a pizzeria, since 2013. Whitney Aycock, a chef perhaps best known in the press for speaking and cooking his mind, turns out some amazing pies, including a salciccia e vongole that rivals the clam pizza at New Haven’s Zuppardi’s. Instead of that pie, we had a surf and turf of a different sort cobbled together from the non-pizza side of the menu. First up was “quick ass ceviche,” made with seabass and pineapple among other things. Next, came two soft shell crabs beached atop Georgia stone ground grits bolstered by smoked cheese. The whole affair was topped with bits of salty porchetta, peanuts cooked in brown butter, and chive buds. I’ve never had a pasta at Aycock’s restaurant, but I’m sure glad we tried his pig butt Bolognese. There was so much sauce I wasn’t sure where the Bolognese ended and the rigatoni began. Under the pork rich tomato sauce enhanced by golden raisins, oregano, and thin slices of garlic lay several packages filled with flowering chives and ricotta. Just in case there wasn’t enough cheese, a white dollop of burrata perched atop the red landscape. It was an incredibly satisfying meal, one that would have been best followed by a long stroll and a nap on the beach, and best eaten more slowly. It left me longing for normalcy, but gave me hope for better times and a summer tan. http://chopsticksandmarrow.com/2016/01/clams-and-ham-at-whits-end-in-the-rockaways I’m not much of a beach in the wintertime kind of guy. But when I found out that Whit’s End Rockaway was still open in the winter, I knew I’d be taking that long bus ride down Woodhaven Boulevard, not for surf and sun, but for top-notch wood-fired pizza and other goodies served up with a healthy dose of attitude. Whitney Aycock is a chef who gives a fuck. A fuck about food from dishes like pig tenderloin with baked tomato and mortadella toast to the wood-fired “Fuckin Good Burger,” to the dozen pizzas. In fact as my buddy and I bellied up to the bar he was giving a fuck to somebody who entered his establishment reeking of weed. Once the fellow was properly chastised Aycock turned his attention to my buddy and me. No slices, OK!!?? No slices, OK!!?? “Tell me about the clam pie,” I asked as someone bellowed, “She’ll never give you sex again if you don’t vote for Trump.” Aycock, as it turns out gives a fuck about clams as well. The Littleneck clams he uses on his pie are seeded in Rockaway and finished out East. “These are sand to sand not sand to mud,” Aycock shouts over the pulsing world music soundtrack and barroom bravado. “There’s a big difference genetically. These clams are fucking amazing dude,” he says before whipping around to frenetically split some wood in front of the woodburning pizza oven that is the heart and soul of his raucous restaurant. whitsham Croat prosciutto served with a Jenga pile of pizza dough is stupendously good. Joining the clams on the salciccia e vongole pizza are housemade sausage seasoned with spezzaforte, pepperoncini, and shaved garlic. Aycock likes to refer to spezzaforte, the aromatic blend of clove, star, anise, juniper, and allspice as “Tuscan grandmother spices.” The combination of the fior di latte mozzarella and Parmigianno Regianno with the other toppings made for the best clam pie I’ve had outside of Zuppardi’s. The Croat prosciutto that started out our meal was simply amazing. Cured in salt, and then smoked over hickory and oak before hanging it had a sweet nutty flavor. Aycock gets his Berkshire pork from Pennsylvania, and is ready with a pithy primer on a Croatian Charcuterie. “The inland ports . . . the air is really perfect for cured meats,” he says before wheeling around to serve a customer an ice cold beer. I have a feeling I’ll be making more trips than ever to the beach this winter."
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"Local pizza (soul of NY) Cash only "
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"Prosciutto ravioli- elise "
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