Botanic Gardens Restaurant
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"Good food review 2023 Vibe: Plush garden-party that zigs, zags and thrills Go-to dish: Crocodile and its broth Drinks: Serious selection of new-generation producers sharing cellar space with French and South Australian icons Cost: Tasting menu, $330 per person (must be paid at the time of booking) Welcome to Restaurant Botanic, where you can expect to pay $330 for about two-dozen stimulating and, sometimes, dazzling creations, which may contain sticks. Twig-skewered barbecued crocodile is served with the soup, too, and embellished with an XO sauce that smacks of muntries and saltbush. The really exciting places, such as Restaurant Botanic, tend to put greater focus on innovation and technique rather than tired formalities and simply sourcing âthe very best produceâ. American-born chef Justin James has to compete with pet food factories, for instance, to get his hands on kangaroo tendons. Food destined for the dogâs bowl doesnât sound very fine at all, but James puffs those tendons into a riveting, pork rind-like petit four licked with salted koji caramel. Itâs one of Botanicâs six final âbitesâ, a smorgasbord of shiitake fudge, emu liver-enriched quandong, and a single leaf of pineapple sage coated in dark chocolate. James assumed the helm at Adelaide Botanic Gardenâs restaurant in 2021, lured by access to more than 400 different herbs, shrubs and trees grown on-site. Previously, he was executive chef at Melbourneâs lauded Vue de Monde and held senior roles at New Yorkâs Eleven Madison Park as well as Noma in Copenhagen. This resume â and the promise of âcamel hump lardoâ â is why Iâve flown two hours to eat here. You donât see cured camel fat every day. You donât approach a restaurant on foot like this every day, either, passing ancient figs and blooming myrtles to reach a heritage tea-house washed in soft light. There isnât a bad view in the rotunda dining room, whether youâre looking at the nearby lake, shelves of earthy coloured ceramics, or an open kitchen where chefs pluck, shuck, tweezer, grill and poach. Our meal, which will last four hours, begins with a tart âflowerâ of apple â both fermented and fresh â daubed with blitzed nasturtium and prettied up with marigold petals. A cluster of green ants stands in for pollen. Terrific. Next, three heirloom tomatoes stuffed with bavarois and native cherry. Pooled in tomato and strawberry water, each bite is a tiny garden party for the last days of summer. My camel hump lardo is melted across slivers of red kangaroo and brushed with charred macadamia brown butter. A subtle smokiness bounces off the sweetness. Pure joy. There are shades of Noma, most obviously in all the ferments, but also in the hands-on approach to eating fat and juicy marron tail, gently cooked in marron shell butter and rolled over burning wood in a bouquet of leaves, thatâs brought, still smouldering, to the table. Dry-aged roast duck breast is also cutlery-free, with a honey-lacquered skin so crunchy it could be porchetta crackling. Next to it is another twig, this time threaded with barbecued duck leg glazed in duck-heart garum and sticky with the acidic pop of finger lime and more green ants. But, like a beachside kiosk or suburban milk bar, Restaurant Botanic feels like Australia. You certainly wonât find a âfallen bunya-bunya branchâ iceblock, finished with wattleseed miso, anywhere else in the world. Bunya branches, which smell like roasted chestnuts after time in the oven, are steeped in cream and fashioned into frozen custard. Itâs a richly rewarding thing to eat, albeit a bit more expensive than a post-surf Gaytime. Not everything works. A âGarden Cosmoâ cocktail ($26) is heavy with citrus oil. An oyster layered with roast eggplant, Oscietra caviar and muntries collapses under the weight of its own ambition. Iâm reminded of Peckâs fish paste. However, the service is well-calibrated â just-so relaxed â and a $195 wine-matching option is full of surprises. A nutty amontillado sherry with your crocodile? Donât mind if we do. I also donât mind dropping the price of a new washing machine for a meal of singular flavours Iâm unlikely to forget. The question isnât whether branch broth qualifies as fine dining, but why donât we have a restaurant like this in Sydney and Melbourneâs civic gardens, too? "
@martinaliberati
"Adelaideâs Restaurant Botanic has won restaurant of the year at Gourmet Travellerâs annual awards night, which were announced in-person at a gala event on Tuesday, after being cancelled in 2020 and held online last year. The restaurant, headed by chef Justin James and located in the middle of the South Australian capitalâs botanic gardens, opened just 14 months ago after the gardensâ previous restaurant underwent a transformation. James uses plants from the surrounds, combining native flavours and more exotic botanics to create a 20-something-course menu that unfolds over at least four hours."
@48places